Our ‘Week in Umbria’ adventure commenced with our host, Michael, picking us up and filling us in on the week ahead. Michael’s restored palazzo in Bettona, between Perugia and Assisi, was lovely, well appointed and tastefully restored and decorated. He was an excellent host, guide, driver, chef and raconteur. After having read our 3 Umbrian books before leaving, we were taken out each day to new towns and villages, wandering through streets and alleys, visiting monasteries and churches, journeying through markets and country sides, sampling restaurants and gelatarias, exploring Etruscan tombs and museums and generally soaking up the region and its history and customs. Michael has an excellent knowledge of the history, customs, food and architecture of Umbria. Our first night we were taken to a traditional Sagra, which is a local festival that usually has a food theme. This was the onion festival in Cannara, as mentioned in one of our books (‘Living in a Foreign Language’). Some days later we even came across one of the authors (of the book ‘Lady in the Palazzo’) while strolling through Orvieto, which was a great surprise and treat for us all. We were also able to get special entry into an old monastery, Montelabate, which was very evocative of atmosphere of ‘The Name of the Rose’. We also did a (successful) truffle hunt in the mountains followed by a truffled lunch at a family run agritourismo farm. All the Umbrian food was fabulous (especially the fresh pasta and truffles for me). We had delicious picnics, ate at great local restaurants and had excellent meals ‘at home’ with Michael (who is an excellent cook) and with the local ingredients as star players to each meal. The other guests were great company and everyone thoroughly enjoyed their time at the palazzo and touring.
